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Beyond the Peaks:Our Sikkim Sojourn

It all started last year when I called one of my closest friends and asked her about her New Year plans. After almost an hour of chatting, we decided on a spontaneous idea: Let’s go to Sikkim and explore its beauty. The thought of doing something completely new filled me with excitement. There were many unknowns in the equation, but the desire to experience the unknown far outweighed any concerns. And so, on December 28th, 2023, we began our adventure.

Arrival at Bagdogra

We took an early morning flight from Bangalore to Bagdogra. While onboard, I was mesmerized by the most beautiful sunrise I had ever seen. Through the small airplane window, the horizon glowed orange as the sun rose, pushing away the dark blue clouds, which floated like cotton candy. It was a magnificent sight.

We landed in Bagdogra around 9 AM. The airport, an army base, had a humid climate. We quickly found a nearby taxi stand and arranged for a ride to Gangtok, the capital of Sikkim, where we planned to stay for a couple of days.

The Road to Gangtok

The journey from Bagdogra to Gangtok took about six hours by car, and along the way, we witnessed the devastating aftermath of a flash flood that had struck the Teesta River a few months earlier. The sight of the raging river and the damage it caused was both awe-inspiring and frightening. As we drove through the rugged landscape, I thought about how small and powerless humans become when nature unleashes its fury. Reconstruction work was underway, and the roads were being repaired, but the beauty of the region still shone through.

We arrived at Hotel Yantang Heritage around 3 PM. The room was spacious, and the food was excellent. We had booked a suite with a view of Mount Kanchenjunga, which we hoped to catch a glimpse of in the mornings when the sky was clear. After some rest, we took a stroll around the area, close to MG Marg. The New Year’s Eve atmosphere was vibrant—beautifully decorated streets filled with people enjoying the night with their loved ones. The weather was perfect, and we were happy to be part of the lively crowd.

Exploring Gangtok and Beyond

We found a cozy café nearby where we enjoyed delicious momos, chicken lollipops, and later, some coffee and pastries. Good food and great weather—what more could we ask for?

The next morning, we woke up early to catch a glimpse of Mount Kanchenjunga. There were several peaks, and although I wasn’t sure which one was Kanchenjunga, I’m sure I saw it in the distance. The experience of simply being there was enough. We spent two days in Gangtok, visiting local attractions and gathering information on how to explore the rest of Sikkim. We learned that the floods had made North Sikkim unsafe to travel, so we decided to explore the eastern, southern, and western parts of the state as we made our way towards Darjeeling.

Nathula and Gnathang Village

We reached out to the cab driver who had brought us to the hotel and asked if he could take us to East, South, and West Sikkim, and then to Darjeeling. He agreed and sent one of his friends, Nobru, to be our guide.

On January 1st, we set off for Nathula, a high-altitude pass along the India-China border. To visit Nathula, you need a special permit and must pass through the check-post before 10 AM. We climbed the Himalayas, and the roads, though steep, were surprisingly well-maintained, thanks to the Border Roads Organisation (BRO).

The climb was breathtaking. As we neared Nathula, the first stop was Changu Lake, a serene, picturesque spot where I met Jigudom, a mighty yet friendly yak.

I couldn’t resist the opportunity to ride him up a nearby hill. Though I was terrified as he descended the slopes, the joy I felt when I reached the top was indescribable.

Next, we visited the Baba Harbhajan Mandir, a sacred temple dedicated to an army soldier. Along the way, we saw army camps where our soldiers live and serve in extreme conditions. All i had for them was pure gratitude and at most respect from the bottom of my heart

We then continued to Gnathang Village, located at 14,000 feet above sea level.The temperature was well below freezing, and we could barely feel our hands and feet. With no network coverage, very few people lived there, and there were no medical facilities. The harsh conditions seemed to make life difficult, but everyone there appeared genuinely happy.

That evening, we joined the locals for a New Year’s party, hearing their stories and watching them dance while we sip some hot tea. The night temperature dropped to -10°C, and it snowed heavily outside, making the experience feel like something out of a dream.

Zuluk and the Old Silk Route

On January 2nd, we started our journey to Zuluk, the historic Old Silk Route. The view from the Tampi Viewpoint was breathtaking. We waited for hours to get a clear view of the mountains, and when the sky finally cleared, it was worth every second.

Then, in a moment of impulsive curiosity, I decided to walk down the hills, asking my friends to follow me by car. I ended up walking 2-3 km alone, deep in the mountains, with no vehicles in sight. It was both exhilarating and a little terrifying, but eventually, my friends found me. In hindsight, it was an adventure that made me laugh, and if given the chance, I would do it again for the sheer adrenaline rush.

We spent the night in a homestay at Pedamchen, surrounded by stunning natural beauty. After a short trek into the woods, we enjoyed a hearty dinner—hot rice and chicken curry—before calling it a night.

South Sikkim and Pelling

The next day, we visited Buddha Park in South Sikkim, a place of tranquility and peace.

Afterward, we headed toward Pelling, where we had booked our stay at Magpie Pachhu Village resort to get a closer view of Mount Kanchenjunga. We waited up until 3 AM for the skies to clear, and when they did, the mountain revealed its awe-inspiring beauty. As the sun rose, the entire mountain range lit up in shades of red and orange—an unforgettable sight.

After a delicious breakfast, we visited the Pemayangtse Monastery and the Sidkeong Bird Park before calling it a day.

Darjeeling and the Final Leg

On January 4th, we set off for Darjeeling. The journey was bumpy but enjoyable. Upon arrival, we checked into the Mt. Lungta Hotel. Unfortunately, the hotel wasn’t great, but we were too exhausted to care.It was time for us to say bye to Nobru who was our friend during this journey. We spent the evening exploring Darjeeling’s Mall Road .

The next day morning, we went to Tiger hill. We didn’t get any ride at 2AM , So we walked to the nearest checkpoint, where we got a ride to Tiger hill. We waited for the sunrise and view of Mt Kanchenjunga, but we liked the closer look we caught from Pelling better. Cannot complain, I saw a leopard while going to Tiger hill.Later that day, we went to Darjeeling Zoo and the Mountaineering Institute, where I had the honor of seeing the memorial of Tenzing Norgay.

We treated ourselves to pastries at Glenary’s Bakery before heading back to the hotel.

The Toy Train and Homeward Bound

The next day, we took the famous Darjeeling Toy Train (a UNESCO World Heritage site) back to New Jalpaiguri. The slow ride was relaxing, and we enjoyed the scenic views of Darjeeling along the way.

After arriving in New Jalpaiguri, we stayed at a comfortable hotel before catching our return flight to Bangalore from Bagdogra.

Reflecting on the Journey

As I sit here, reflecting on the trip after almost a year now, I feel an overwhelming sense of joy. Two girls, with nothing more than a random idea of traveling to Sikkim, created memories that will last a lifetime. Journeys like these shape who we are, creating experiences that stay with us forever. So, if you ever get the chance to embark on an adventure, know this: you are scripting your own journey.

amrutharajan.com

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